I was listening to the Peggy Guggenheim biography by Francine Prose and I kept returning to one part that mentioned Leonora Carrington. She had gone mad, “set free her pet eagle, sold their house for a bottle of brandy, and vanished into a Spanish mental asylum to which she’d been committed by her influential British family.” All I’ve been thinking since is… I’ve got such a distance to go!
ANYWAY, someone asked me what I write about on here and I had to say the newsletter is… voice driven (a euphemism? Perhaps). Some of you may have zero interest in cosmetics or skincare but because I live in the world and wear lipstick, you will have to grin and bear it for this edition of SMALL JOINTS. I keep saying to my friends…sure I’m a writer, but I am a WOMAN first!
I find people’s makeup routines so fascinating especially if they don’t really talk about them as part of their “work.” It’s why the Top Shelf interviews on Into the Gloss were so fun (I didn’t realize they still had them… why has no one called me!). But also, isn’t it fascinating how we can become experts at something like makeup and it’s just expected of us to know how to do it or be good at? Half of my friends are very no makeup at all and have been using the same eye pencil since university. The other half are so incredible at each of their respective looks but how they get there and what products they use is a mystery to me (unless I rifle through their stuff when I’m at their houses—an underrated route to a fun kind of intimacy).
Everything I use is very “grab and go,” I don’t like anything fussy and as I get older I realize I do need to add additional products to my routine and this annoys me. My approach is to know what works and do touch ups as little as possible. I spent most of this month in New York where life was very go-go-go. I usually had less than 5 hours of sleep and less than half an hour to get ready to go anywhere. My whole routine became a fascinating exercise in muscle memory.
One thing I would like to say is why don’t cosmetics have “water-based”, “silicone-based”, “oil-based” plainly labelled on each product? I’m not a chemist and yet when I trial and error makeup this is what needs to be top of mind so I technically do need to be a chemist to avoid caking, flaking, and pilling.
I will only have one or two of these kinds of recommendations a year because I rarely change my products up unless a brand sends me things and they achieve the highest praise (ascend into being a part of my regular arsenal). Comment and let me know if you like this sort of thing, I was feeling a little shy because god knows some of you are not here for such… feminine diversions (but you should be)!
*some of these links are affiliate links and most of them are to sephora or ulta… if you are going to spend at a LARGE corporation anyway…
Makeup
I can’t go into a drugstore without coming out with some little makeup treat. I’m of the opinion that a lot of drugstore makeup is as good as anything fancy, but it requires a lot of trial and error. One of my friend’s works head office at one of the big beauty retailers and has let me dig through all her samples which is how I came to higher end products before brands started sending me things to try. I usually drag my feet when making more expensive beauty purchases because I know I could run by the drug store for something that might be half as good but has a reasonable price tag. But alas, sometimes the price is actually paying for something that works well.
Mascara - I have responded to my friend’s instagram stories telling them they need to stop wearing whatever mascara they’re wearing because it’s running and giving them panda eyes. We have the technology! We have moved past panda! TUBING MASCARA is right there! Tubing mascara coats each single lash and comes off as little strips when you wash it off. This is perfect when you are known to cry in public (I’m not ashamed, my makeup stays perfect). The only mascara I wear is Milani’s tubing mascara. Well-priced, available at most drug stores, doesn’t bother my eyes (I wear contacts).
Blush - Blush is my absolute favourite product to wear. It just makes everyone look fresh and sprightly. I always say two things that make me look alive are penciling in my eyebrows and applying a liberal amount of blush. Longtime readers have seen me extoll the virtues of the Danessa Myricks Blurring Balm. I wear it in the shade “Dancing Queen.” It is so pigmented and buildable, it is the first thing I make sure I’m carrying whenever I change purses. I’ve influenced my friends to buy it in real time when I’ve applied it on them in public when they’ve felt the need to spruce up.
I will admit the next product I’ve only just come around to. The Milk Cooling Water Jelly Tint, my favourite shades are Spritz and Chill. I suppose my experience with this product speaks volumes for Giving Second Chances. My initial issue with this tint was that it dried too fast and was difficult to spread in a way that made it look natural. The pigment would collect in certain areas of my face and not others. This was specifically when nothing would be on my face underneath. Now, after applying a certain sunscreen and priming serum, the jelly tint doesn’t dry as immediately and it becomes workable. My favourite thing about the Jelly Tint is how long it lasts without budging, whereas the Danessa Myricks balm does require reapplication. Both these things are very grab and go, and can also be applied on lips. Perfect for “unplanned sleepovers.”
Charlotte Tilbury Blush Wand gets an honourable mention because I love the product, I just hate the way its packaged. The applicator has a tendency to split on its neck and the product oozes out. But, easy and breezy otherwise! It’s just too expensive to risk this kind of package malfunction. I have a lot of complaints about packaging…
Eye Liner + Shadow - I go through so much liquid eyeliner that of course my choice for this wouldn’t be pricey. I’ve been doing a cat eye since I was thirteen and I can remember I used the Rimmel liquid eyeliner for years until they did a reformulation. Now, I use the E.L.F. H20 Proof Inkwell eyeliner. My rules for liquid eyeliner is it shouldn’t budge, bleed, or flake off. This liner is my mainstay.
My eyes are where I do most of the “fun” things and experiment if I have the time. It really is just like painting. Firstly, everyone should own a taupe-y colour of eyeshadow as a classic base. If you look at photos of Audrey Hepburn there is this taupe-y brown that amplifies her eye shape and creates this frame and depth. It softens the black liner and gives the makeup an element of subtlety. The Mac Matte Eyeshadow in Omega or if you can find the shade Natural Wilderness for a warmer tone.
The first time anyone does a successful smokey eye is a makeup rite of passage. Whenever I do one my friend Tony says I turn into a “goblin.” This is to say the smokey eye gives me terrifying power and everyone needs to get out of my way.
Another eyeshadow style I tend to do is a colour wash, I’ll buy single pans of a very pigmented colour and just build it along the lid (think Love Witch). I prefer doing this in a shimmery copper, champagne gold, or a bright pink. I really hate storing eyeshadow palettes so single pan eyeshadows are a must for me.
Brows - A brow pencil does not need to be anything fancy. I have a Gucci brow pencil, a random brow pencil from a Greek pharmacy, a brow pen I bought from Bigelow Chemists. by the brand WBCo., but does it matter? I don’t think so. I can’t be convinced that one brow pencil is better than the other… A little brow gel though, sure. I like the Milk Kush High Roll brow gel. As long as my brows don’t look patchy, I’ll live.
Face - I’m very lucky that I’ve always had good skin. Though, as I’ve probably mentioned here before, during the worst periods of anxiety I tend to PICK! This becomes a problem because I end up scarring. A lot of my actual skincare has to do with solving hyperpigmentation, scarring, and evening out skin tone. Now, as I get older I’m trying to add more of the complex steps in (Vit C, retinol, etc.).
Underneath I’ll do a lighter moisturizer like the La Roche Posay Effaclar Mat or HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice Cream and wait to let it sink in, then a sunscreen like the Ultra Violette Fave Fluid SPF 50 (a must for me in Greece), or the Summer Fridays Shade Drops (this has a slight cast to it, so I wear it in the paler months). On top I’ll wear the Peter Thomas Roth glow serum which truly makes the skin glow. This is what makes my skin look AMAZING in photos. I have no idea if it actually “firms” my skin over time but that is not what I use it for.
I don’t wear foundation unless I’m getting photos done, but I’ve always had pretty dark eye bags since I was a child (my mother loved to remark about them). I’ve tested out a lot of concealers in my day and for now I like the Sephora brand Hydrating Glow Concealer because it’s buildable and doesn’t look cakey. After I put blush on and before I put eye makeup on I’ll use a setting spray like the NYX dewy finish.
I have combination skin so before bed I’ll do a heavier moisturizer for dryness. I’ll wash my face with the Skinfix hydrating cleanser and slather on SkinFix moisturizer for this reason, and if you wear contacts I would suggest nighttime application as well because this tends to slip into the corners of my eyes and cause irritation. I also like Tula’s 24/7 moisturizer when it’s deep into Canadian winter. I’ve been super impressed with the E.L.F. cosmetics skin care and feel like it could be compared favourably to the SkinFix line. I like their Holy Hydration balm cleanser and face cream (the cream is less dense than SkinFix’s).
For any advanced things, I defer to Paula’s Choice until I learn anything else about the science. God forbid a woman has other things to do! (Pro-Collagen Peptide, Clinical 1% Retinol, Mandelic + Lactic acid, BHA liquid exfoliant). Oh, I lied, I also like the Biossance Squalane + Lactic Acid night serum.
Lips - I spent much of my teenage-hood wearing red lipstick (Mac’s RUBY WOO!). Now, I’m much more prone to a lip oil or a lip gloss. If I am wearing a lipstick I wear Merit’s Signature lipstick matte shades in Maison or Neutral.
I posted a photo of the inside of my handbag the other day and got many people messaging me about the C.O. Bigelow lip gloss in my bag as being a “throwback”. Listen, they still stock it! I am a devotee to the cinnamint flavour of their Mentha Lip Shine. First of all, it tastes sweet. Second of all if you have any kisses someone always remarks on it. I use the Milk Electric Glossy Lip Plumper in shades Wired and Buzzed. Again, does it noticeably plump my lips? I don’t know, but I like the weird buzzy feeling it gives on the lips when I’m on a night out.
Body - Before I get into moisturizers the body wash situation is very… Silly. I like the smells of Salt & Stone and Necessaire. Are these things actually hydrating? I don’t think so. They just add to the good atmosphere of the shower. The L’Occitane almond oil body wash is a new favourite but I wish the pricing was better. It goes on as an oil but suds up as you lather. I do think this is moisturizing.
I especially love the body wash’s counterpart, L’Occitane’s almond shimmer oil. This is similar to the Nuxe shimmer oil that everyone talks about but honestly I find the smell of the Nuxe oil terribly unappealing. The shimmer oil makes you very soft and doesn’t have that annoying transfer onto your clothes (as far as I can tell). It’s important for my skin to be very, very, very soft. For body sunscreen I LOVE the formula of the Ultra Violette Extreme Screen SPF 50 for the smell and the dash of shimmer (for some reason it’s not available in the US), it’s also very hydrating.
My skin freaks out when I’m stressed and I get small patches of psoriasis, so at that point I use something rather clinical like Eucerin. To help with any body acne I use the Tia’m anti blemish lotion from my local K-Beauty store.
Lasering at home… Okay this is the most intense step in my beauty routine and I always forget to do it but this is the one thing in my life I’ve bought and I’m like “wow this restores so much faith in buying stuff when it actually works.” I bought a Braun IPL machine a year and a half ago (I paid for it in installments!!!!) and sometimes when I’m at parties I literally tell my friends to stroke my leg to feel how effective it is. As my friend Billie said recently, “Why… does your leg feel like that?” OUT OF THIS WORLD SOFT! For those of you who know about lasering off hair, this is for those that have dark hair follicles and enough contrast in skin tone so the lasers can do their zapping.
Deodorant - If Nécessaire ever discontinues the deodorant gel it’s going to be a cursed day. Sometimes it’s sold out and I’m like ???? I prefer the Eucalyptus over the fragrance free. Another thing I’ve found that works for me when I want to cycle products (why is it with deodorants that continuous use can stop it from working?). I’ll put the Ordinary’s glycolic acid in a spritz bottle and use that as deodorant. It works? Don’t ask me how. The only downside is, if I’m keeping up with my lasering I wouldn’t advice using the acid around the same timeframe as it’s just a recipe for burning since the skin is being exfoliated under your arms.
Am I missing anything? If you have other questions pls comment below and I will answer. Apparently I’m at the ‘Email Length Limit”
Of COURSE we want your beauty routine, I am obsessed! I've not heard of many of these brands, thanks for the heads up! This was fun.
I am so glad you decided to write a SMALL JOINTS about makeup/skincare/etc!!! It’s one of my favorite things to talk about and I always like hearing what other people use and how they use it. I especially loved your references to the Top Shelf Interviews—a staple of my teenage years, I spent countless hours reading those—and to Breakfast at Tiffany’s, whose getting-ready-for-Sing-Sing scene has always stuck with me. (The way Paul is swiftly recruited into scouring for alligator shoes under the bed and holding up a mailbox turned beauty prep station for a woman he met 5 minutes ago is amazing and exactly the kind of power I aspire to wield.)
Anyway, thank you for all these recs! I’m especially excited to try the Milani mascara and the DM blush, and I’ll be keeping an eye on that Peter Thomas Roth serum for when I run out of my Wet n Wild primer.